The name means “Hour of Air” and refers to the time of day when prisoners were let outside for fresh air—alluding to the fact that this gem is across the street from what was once the old prison. In the kitchen, gifted young chef Marco Stabile turns out exquisite Tuscan classics as well as more-fanciful dishes, which are as beautiful as they are delicious; intrepid diners will be vastly rewarded for ordering the tortellini farciti con piccione (stuffed with pigeon) if it’s on the day’s menu. Two tasting menus give Stabile even greater opportunity to shine, and the carefully culled wine list has something to please every palate. Do not miss his tiramisu espresso — something halfway between a dessert and a coffee.